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The Oldest and "Firstest" of the Historic District
by Leon Schwarzbaum
In 1629, King Charles I of England gave a large chunk of land in North America to Sir Robert Heath. While Charles may not have owned it, England had a powerful fleet and strong mercenary army, so his right to make the grant was never questioned. All of the land between Virginia and Florida was called Carolana (Charles, in Latin). In 1663, Charles II changed the name to Carolina.
Charles Towne was founded in 1670, and quickly established a reputation for tolerance by welcoming persecuted Jews and Huguenots from Europe. As plantations and commerce flourished, Charles Towne became the capital of the region and the home of wealthy plantation owners and traders, who built luxurious town houses.
Charleston, as it came to be called, became the cultural center of the American south.
Charleston's surrounding areas are full of sights, sports and recreation areas, but for many, exploring the historic district is the most interesting. Buildings constructed in the earliest days, and those built in the 18th century, have been preserved and restored, most having been in continuous use since they were first occupied.
The city has withstood two wars, several fires, an earthquake and devastating hurricanes, each time rebuilding and restoring its historical treasures. In approximately 25 blocks, the history of colonial American architecture can be seen and appreciated.
Most tourists take a carriage tour conducted by one of the three companies offering one-hour rides with knowledgeable guides, some being descendants of the earliest residents. In a looping route of approximately nine miles, horse-drawn carriages or mule-drawn wagons take sightseers through streets little changed by modern society.
But for many, the guided walking tours and the self-guided walks provide an opportunity to spend time at places of the greatest interest.
Many of the sights are called, accurately, the "oldest." The Dock Street Theatre, at Church & Queen Streets, is the first building in the U.S. designed solely for theatrical performances. St Michael's Church is the oldest church edifice in the city of Charleston. St. Mary's Church at 89 Hasell Street is the oldest Roman Catholic Church in South Carolina, and just across the street, Congregation Beth Elohim, established in 1749, is the oldest surviving Reform synagogue in the world and the oldest functioning synagogue in the U.S.
The Charleston Museum is the first and oldest museum in the U.S. and covers the history of the city.
The historic houses, many of which date back to the late 18th century and early 19th century, are notable examples of Adam, Greek Revival and pre-Civil War American architecture, and are usually open to the public on scheduled days.
For those addicted to shopping, there are shops and markets spread all over the city. The area around King & Market Streets is where one finds the greatest concentration. Charlestonians will tell you the history of "The Market" - the original public market now transformed into a shopping arcade.
Many Charleston hotels and tourist accommodations are in the historic district. The Andrew Pinckney Inn, restored in 1997, offers modern facilities in the heart of the district. Dinner on the rooftop garden terrace is the perfect end to a long day of sightseeing. Maison DuPre', on East Bay Street, is slightly more elegant.
If any street can be called the "main drag," it's King Street. The Antebellum Bed & Breakfast is at 19 King Street, the Francis Marion Hotel is at 387 King Street and Fulton Lane Inn, surprisingly, is not on Fulton Lane, but at 202 King Street. Hayne House Bed & Breakfast is at 30 King Street, King's Courtyard Inn is at 198 King Street and Victoria House Inn is at 208 King Street.
Local eateries and watering holes range from elegant to "down home style."
One can enjoy a romantic candle-lit dinner in an 1880 Victorian home at Mint Juleps or a seafood feast at A.W. Shuck's in The Market. Families can enjoy the informal ambiance of Kaminsky's Most Excellent Caf on Market Street or at any of the 30 other establishments in the district.
Visitors to the historic district can ask for a Tourist Pack, entitling them to discounts at some of the places described here (and others). For a family group or for individuals, substantial savings can be made by using the free coupons.
Depending on their schedules, there are dance performances at the Charleston Ballet Theatre on Meeting Street, or theatrical performances every Thursday, Friday and Saturday at the Charleston Stage Company on Church Street. The Charleston Symphony Orchestra performs at 14 George Street, and musical programs are held at Legends Music Hall (called Charleston's Preservation Hall) at 30 Cumberland Street. "Serenade at the Charleston Music Hall" at 37 John Street offers an evening of music, comedy and dance.
Your hotel's desk personnel can provide brochures and information about all of these performances. One great advantage is that all are within reasonable walking distance from most restaurants, allowing you to leave the car where you parked it.
And for those wanting more, Charleston Folk Contra Dance group invites country and folk dancers to events held in Charleston and nearby Calabash. Hey, here's your chance to dance to the music of Donnybrook Legacy at Gage Hall (4 Archdale Street) or to do low-country old-time dancing at the Calabash Fire Department (next to the Town Hall).
And if you're ready for more, join Anna Blythe on an eerie journey into old Charles Towne's haunted. Her "Ghost Walk" takes you to houses where ghosts still dwell, according to past legends. She calls it "a family tour combining history and tales from the tomb." The kids love it, and some adults admit they do too.
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